3011 3D Printed 1911 Details
The 3011 is a 3D printed version of the Colt 1911 pistol.
The 3011 brings a World War 2 standard issue pistol into the modern era. Some consider the 3011 an abomination while others think it is beautiful.
Wherever you stand the 3011 3D printed 1911 is bad a**.
3011 Pistol in the Wild
3011 Pistol History
The 3011 was the brain child of evil genius 3D gun builder Ivan the Troll.
What Parts are 3D Printable?
The printable part of this 1911 upgrade is the frame.
The frame of the 3011 is modified and has a modern 3D printed twist.
As with all 3D printed firearms, you will absolutely require certain metal components i.e. the barrel of the gun.
However, Ivan made it possible to print all of the following:
Lower Frame/Receiver You are able to 3D print 100% of the lower frame/receiver and then use a 1911 parts kit to complete the build.
3011 Read Me
This is the 3011 – a 3D-printable 1911 frame that takes AR15(check out the Yankee Boogle Swift Link) fire control parts.
The 3011 can be configured as a rifle (with 16″ barrels), braced pistol carbine, or as a standalone pistol – or however, else you’d like!
For help finishing your build, refer to the ‘3011 Build Tutorial’ pdf found in this download package, as well as the video you can watch and download here: https://odysee.com/@Ivan’s_CAD_Streams:c/3011BuildTutorial:c
Note – this package contains files for frames with work with standard barrels and Para/Clark ramped barrels. Be aware that due to variation in how Para/Clark barrels are made, fitting will usually be required if you use a ramped barrel – this fitting is usually required on the inside chamfer edge on the rails.
This frame has been tested to work well in eSun PLA+. In any material similar or superior to PLA+, this frame should work as well.
Note that all STL files are oriented and scaled properly, and changing their scale or orientation may result in your parts not fitting/working properly.
**Note on orientation – there’s a lot of debate about which orientation to print pistol frames in. I’ve found upright works great for this particular frame when printed in PLA or Zytel. If you print in something that is prone to warp (like ABS), you might want to print it inverted to keep the bulk of the frame close to the heat coming off the bed (which will help discourage warp).
*Note that you MUST follow these print settings in order to get the best possible results – changing nozzle size or layer height may cause you to have to hand fit things!*
My print settings for PLA+ were as follows:
Layer Height: 0.15mm
Infill: 100% (You can use 99% infill on Cura to speed up the print time)
Supports: On/full (tree supports are ok) – use a close support interface gap. Your interface gap should not be larger than 0.15mm unless you know what you are doing with your setup.
Cooling fan: 20% normal, 50% on bridges. Off for the first 10 layers. Keep the fan low to prevent warp.
Bed Adhesion: gluestick or hairspray or both
Post processing: If you print your frame upright, you can clean up the rough bottom-facing areas of your print with a soldering iron – after removing supports, take your soldering iron and melt the rough patches on the frame together to make them smooth.
All other settings can/should be left as default or whatever you know works best with your printing setup.
The 3011 is not for everyone and is possibly the most jaw-dropping modern take on a classic firearm.
However, if you love 3D gun culture and “not your grandfathers” gun designs, the 3011 may be for you!